MAHA

Somewhere in the Middle East – of the Melbourne CBD, there is MAHA. Okay, it’s actually more the Middle West but I was trying to be allusive. Yes, it is Middle Eastern cuisine and the theatrically is impressive, the ornaments adorning the interior, the mysteriously cloudy exotic aroma, the spices, the sheeshas, the spectral overload. The Turkish Delight cocktail, with Turkish Delight delectably sunken at the bottom of your martini glass is refreshing and so is the absolute lack of reception in the underground space. No check-ins at this establishment, just completely uninterrupted degustation. The menu reads like this: “Big meal, larger meal, disgustingly large meal or WELCOME TO THE MIDDLE AGES BECAUSE YOU ARE ABOUT TO FEAST LIKE A KING (SULTAN, whatever).”

You can be restrained and reach for the a la carte menu, or you can let the Chef take the reigns - more accurately, your reigns, because you’re about to eat like a horse. In the evening, you may choose from the 4 course soufra or the 6 or 8 course degustation, though I believe my translation of the menu is far more descriptive. Prepare to settle in with impeccable service and the tinny sound of Turkish cymbals and Persian flutes, which is seemingly neverending – much like the meal.


Teased with olives, dips and this amazing coconut water and orange blossom, lime pearls, local scallops, blue swimmer crab, kombu served in a glass. It is unique and very rich. More of this to follow. I loosen my belt in anticipation.

Cured tuna, figs, blonde tahini, raz el hanout nougatine. As delectable as it is presented.

Salmon, basil gel, corn custard, crab and sucuk zalzett.

The chicken was my favourite of the night. It was tender and marinated in a combination of Middle Eastern spices. Tantric.

Lamb shoulder, pistachio and green olive tabouleh. I was letting it all hang out by this stage. Belt was well and truly abandoned. Incredibly flavoursome.

Peanut butter parfait, baklava crumb, salted caramel, chocolate sorbet, orange blossom foam. Absolutely breathtaking. Salted caramel makes me happy.

Turkish delight filled doughnuts, olive oil baklava mousse, rosewater honey. I wasn’t as impressed with this as with the Turkish delish swimming in my cocktail – the dough was heavy, the texture chewy and the Turkish delight hiding amongst it.

Sangria compressed melon, mint ice, mandarin sorbet, lemon yoghurt.

The service is flawless and the atmosphere potent with exoticisms. Minimum $150 per head if you intend on wine and you will, even though the experience is intoxicating enough.

Maha
21 Bond St
MELBOURNE VIC 3000
(03) 9629 5900